Spring Daisy Mandala

Spring Daisy Mandala

As those of you who follow me on Instagram will know, I recently designed a crochet mandala. One of my goals for 2016 is around designing and this is the start.

I call it my “Spring Daisy Mandala” and this is the pattern.

Stitches/techniques used: these are the stitches used in this design. If you’re unsure how to make and of these stitches, then click on the links. This will take you to my Crochet Dictionary where you will find a written description of how to make the stitch along with links to photo and video tutorials.

Spring Daisy Mandala

The terminology used here is all for UK.

There’s nothing too complicated in the stitches themselves, the positioning sometimes takes a bit more explanation!

And sorry if the photos aren’t always that good – I never have time to do this sort of thing during daylight hours! I probably need to investigate how to set up my own simple, portable, little photo studio!

Round 1 – Yellow

Starting with a magic ring, ch 2 and work 8 htr in the ring. Sl st in the top of the starting chain, cut yarn and fasten off.

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Round 2 – White

Start in any round 1 htr,  make  a standing puff stitch, (ch 1, 1 puff in next st) 8 times, ch1. Sl st in the top of the first puff st.

There is no need to cut the yarn and fasten off here, unless you choose to work the next round in a different colour.

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Round 3 – White

Sl st into the next chain space. Ch 3, work a starting popcorn in same chain space, (ch 2, popcorn  in next ch space) 8 times, ch 2 and sl st in the top of the first popcorn . Cut yarn and fasten off.

In round 3, the chain stitches between the popcorns should be allowed to fall to the back of your work where they will lie slightly below the level of the top of the popcorn  stitches.

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Front                                          Back

Round 4 – Pink/purple

Work only in the ch spaces between the popcorn stitches. Starting with a standing dc in any chain space, work 5 dc in each chain space. Sl st in the first st to join, cut yarn and fasten off.

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Front                                          Back

Round 5 – Light green

Start with a standing dc between stitches immediately behind the top of a bobble. (Ch8, dc between stitches behind next bobble) 8 times, ch 8, sl st in the first stitch.

There is no need to cut the yarn and fasten off here, unless you choose to work the next round in a different colour.

Round 6 – Light green

Sl st to next ch8 space, ch1, 6 dc, picot, 6 dc in the same ch space, * (6 dc , picot, 6 dc) in next ch space *. Repeat from * to * 7 more times. Sl st in the first st to join, cut yarn and fasten off.

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Fold the ‘leaves’ made in round 5 and 6 to the front and work rounds 7 and 8 behind. The round 7 stitches are worked into round 4, between the round 5 stitches.

Round 7 – Dark green

Start with a standing dc in a stitch of round 4 two sts after a round  5 dc, ch 11, (dc in st two sts after next round 5 dc, ch 11) 8 times, sl st in the first dc.

There is no need to cut the yarn and fasten off here, unless you choose to work the next round in a different colour.

Round 8 – Dark green

Sl st to next ch11 space, ch 1. * (3 dc, 3 htr, 2 tr, picot, 2tr, 3htr, 3dc) all in the same 11 ch loop, skip next dc. * Repeat from * to * 8 times. Sl st in first st, cut yarn and fasten off.

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Round 9 – Light green

Start with a standing dc in any picot of round 8, (ch 12, dc in next picot) 8 times, ch 12 and sl st in first st.

There is no need to cut the yarn and fasten off here, unless you choose to work the next round in a different colour.

Round 10 – Light green

Sl st to next ch space and ch 3. Make 11 tr in the same ch space, (tr in next dc st, 12 tr in next chain loop) 8 times, tr in last st. Sl st in first st, cut yarn and fasten off.

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Round 11 – White

Start with a standing dc in any round 10 tr stitch before one made in a round 9 dc. Dc in next 2 sts, ch 8, htr in the first round 6 picot to the left of your dc sts. Ch 8, skip 10 sts of round 10, (dc in each of next 3 sts, ch8, htr in picot of rnd 6, ch8, skip 10 sts of round 10) 8 times. Sl st to first st, cut yarn and fasten off.

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Round 12 – Yellow

Start in the first st immediately after any group of 3 dc of rnd 11. Dc, ch1, (skip 1dc, dc in next st, ch 1) 5 times, ch3, skip 3 dc of round 11. * Dc in next st of rnd 10 immediately after 3 dc of rnd 11. Ch1, (skip 1dc, dc in next st, ch 1) 5 times, ch3, skip 3 dc of round 11. *  Repeat from * to * 7 more times. Sl st to first st, cut yarn and fasten off.

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Round 13 – Pink/purple

Start with a standing dc in the first of any group of 3 round 11 dc, dc in next 2 sts. Dc in next (round 12) st, spike dc over next (ch) stitch, working over ch st from rnd 12 and anchoring the st in rnd 10 tr. (Dc, spike dc) 4 more times.  * Dc 3, (Dc, spike dc) 5 times. * Repeat from * to * 7 more times. Sl st to first st, cut yarn and fasten off.

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Round 14 – White

Start in the first spike dc after any 3 dc worked in round 11 dc.  Tr3tog over first 3 sts, (ch3, tr3tog over next 3 sts) twice, ch 3. * Next, dtr2tog as follows – yarn round hook twice, insert hook around ch8 from round 11 to the right of your position in this row, yarn over and pull up a loop, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice – 2 loops on hook; yarn over twice, insert hook around ch8 from round 11 to the left of your position in this row, yarn over and pull up a loop, (yarn over and pull through 2 loops) twice – 3 loops on hook; yarn over and pull hook through all loops. (Ch3, skip 4 sts, tr3tog over next 3 sts) 3 times, ch3. * Repeat from * to * 7 more times, work one more dtr2tog, ch3 and sl st to first st, cut yarn and fasten off.

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Round 15 – Pink/purple

Start in the first ch3 space after a dtr2tog, *(work 5 dc in the ch3 space, skip 1 st) 4 times, 1 fpdc around dtr2tog, * repeat from * to * 8 more times. Sl st to first st, cut yarn and fasten off.

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Round 16 – Lt green

Start at the first tr3tog of round 14 after the dtr2tog. * (Make a standing spike stitch over the round 15 stitches into the top of the tr3tog, ch6, skip 5 sts) 3 times, dc in fpdc, ch6. * Repeat from * to * 8 more times, sl st to first stitch.

There is no need to cut the yarn and fasten off here, unless you choose to work the next round in a different colour.

Round 17 – Lt green

In each ch6 loop, make (2dc, 2htr, picot, 2htr, 2 dc), skip the spike dc sts. Sl st to first stitch, cut yarn and fasten off.

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Congratulations – you’ve completed your Spring Daisy Mandala!

If you make a mandala using this pattern, I’d love it if you would let me know. Either let me know through the comments here or post on Instagram using the tag #springdaisymandala.

Spring Daisy Mandala        Spring Daisy Mandala

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6 thoughts on “Spring Daisy Mandala

  1. debbie says:

    thank you so much for a beautiful pattern – it’s beautiful! is there a way that you can further explain round 11? round 10’s repeat is 12 tc (in the chain) and 1 tc in the dc = 13 stitches. which two do i dc into? thank you

    Like

    • tintocktap says:

      Hi – yes, it’s complicated to explain, but not too complicated to do!

      In round 11 you have groups of 3 dc made into the tr stitches of round 10. The goal of the round is to have these groups of three centred over the picot stitches of the outer ‘leaves’ that you worked into in round 9. You don’t really need to be too precise, as long as they’re centred above the picot stitches.

      Round 9 starts with a dc in any picot. Round 10 starts in this first dc and finishes off with a sl st into the first stitch. You could start round 11 by working into the stitch before the sl st, the second into the stitch with the sl st and the third into the next stitch. That should centre them above the picot.

      I hope that makes enough sense and that you find it helpful!

      And I’d love to see a pic of your finished mandala!

      Like

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